Last week I hopped on what they call a "chicken bus", 13 hours from Victoria Falls to Harare. Overnight, with stops in tiny towns, lots of standing passengers and police controls who just smiled knowingly when the driver assured them in Shona that everyone standing up or sitting on the floor was actually employed on the bus. The land here is much more arable, women at our stops began selling bananas and oranges dirt-cheap from baskets on their heads.
|Check out the women balancing boiled eggs on their heads!|
In Harare I realized I couldn't actually get in touch with my couchsurfer, and for some reason the internet informed me that the only backpackers' hostel in town was all booked... Which is when I met Danei, a 25-year old Harare girl who was sitting next to me in the internet cafe and offered spontaneously to let me stay at her place. She shares a big house in one of the poorer suburbs with only her brother, Bismarck, and took me there on an overfull taxi bus. Here I got to take a sponge bath and clean myself up - there are complete bathrooms with showers and everything, but the water pressure isn't sufficient to actually use them.
|Danei and her house|
|Bismarck, myself and my kind host in the kitchen|
The next morning I went out to meet with Willy and see his much poorer and more rural suburb, Epworth.
|Epworth - almost a township|
|Willy and the rabbits|
Then, after another evening at Danei's house and an impromptu african dance party in their kitchen, I met up with my couchsurfer Chris in the morning and went through a wild goose chase picking up and dropping off stuff for his borehole drilling business all over H., and buying veg at the huge outdoor market, Mbare Musika.
|Pea sellers at Mbare|
|American and Zimbabwean miners discussing|
|The water delivery|
|Tracking a wounded animal - much like a sinister treasure hunt!|
|The farmer and his broken motor|
|Chris at the gate of the president's backyard banana plantation|